About 100 km down the road, there was a sign for "Iceberg Alley". We knew we were too late for the icebergs, but thought it might be an interseting road to take anyway. The road was about 10 km in until reached the small village of St. Lewis. As we expected, there were no icebergs on the way, but we enjoyed the view, and walked around Fisherman's point a ways. We then drove around to the other side of the inlet where much of the community was. It was a quaint village with homes from about the 50s.
Driving down the road we came to Mary's Harbour, where the World Heritage islandsite Battle Harbour is. We drove down to see what the boat schedule was to the island to find that it goes out at 11am each day, once a day, and we had missed it by 20 minutes. This was one site we wanted to see, so we checked with the two hotels in town to see if they had a room for tonight, so we could visit the site tomorrow. However there was no room at the inn.
On a whim, we drove back to the the Battle Harbour information site, to see if there was any other way to get the the island today. As it turns out, the tour info person is married to the fellow that drives the day tour boat, and as happens, there were no day tours today. With some magic on the computer, she booked us in for an overnight stay at the heritage site and arranged for Dexter, her husband to take us out.
The boat ride to the island takes about an hour. Belle Island (I think it's called) is out in the Atlantic just as the inlet begins.
Battle Harbour is an old fishing village that is believed to have been first occupied in aboaut 1750 and had livyers (people who lived on the island year round) until about 1967, when Joey Smallwood ressettled the community to Mary's Harbour. We were told that resettlement happened after the hospital and school on the island burned down. After that, only stationers (people who live on the island during the summer fishing season) occupied the island.
The locals did not want their community to disappear the way so many tiny fishing villages have over the years, so they developed a non-profit corporation and began restoration of the buildings in the early 90's. The restoration is very accurate. It's like stepping into another world from over a hundred years ago when you get off the boat. There is no network, or wifi available (except for one small area of the lounge)
The tour info person had advised the Island we were coming so they held a lunch for us. Our first stop was to enjoy an beef pot pie with home made buns and cookies and cakes for dessert
Following lunch, we registered at the store, and then joined the tour already in place. Nelson, our tour guide, had grown up on the island before resettlement and had many stories about what it was like to live in a small fishing village and fewer than 300 people. The buildings have been well maintained in their original form and the displays fascinating. Nelson explained how the cod were caught, fileted and salted for later delivery. It takes 75 pounds of salt for each 112 pounds of cod. As he took us from building to building he combined history with story telling and by the end of the two hour tour, the village almost felt like our home.
We were then introduced to our room - the Robert Peary Room. Robert Peary discovered the North Pole in 1909. Our room is at the back of the Inn furthest away from the main area, and overlooks the ocean on three sides. There is a bedroom with a queen bed, and a second room, almost as large, with a footed soaker tub.
We then dropped by the lodge, which is the gathering place for folks. It is above the store, and has several large couches and chairs for conversation... and a bar. We had a beer while we waiting for suppertime. One of the other guests is here for the second time, and we heard from her...several times.... how last year she came for one day and stayed for six... "just one more day".
One of the very special things about this island is the staff. Almost all of them grew up here before resettlement, so have stories about what life was like then, which makes it like actually being there when it was a functioning fishing village
Supper was cod and cornfish served on a mashed potatoe, with home made buns and a partridge berry crusted pudding for dessert. All the food served on the island is local, fresh, and home made on sight.
After supper, the fog started to roll in and it was hard to see very far. Bob decided he wanted to go up to the communication towers and plane crash site, so while he is wandering through the fog, I am writing our blog and relaxing in our room.
After Bob returned safely, we decided to walk down to the loft for a glass of wine and to be a bit social. With the assistance of Peter Bull, the manager of the site, we booked a ferry for tomorrow night, and a hotel room at Plum Point. We had wanted to stay on Labrador one extra day, but the ferry for Thursday is already completely booked.
Hotel: Belle Island Inn
Temp: Sunny and warm
Distance: 124 km
Mileage: 9.2 L/100km
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